Creator's Red Sea

I started my adventure with the red hollands in 2006. I was able to get some beautiful Thrianta from Sonya Lyons of Bramblehedge to start the project. I already have some nice orange hollands to work with and so far I am very pleased my F generations. I should have some F generation red babies for sale in the 2009 new year. If you are interested please let me know! I have pictured many of my F1-F3 generation reds here for you to see. I am coming into some new generations now that show a lot of improvement, but still feel it is of interest to see the progression. I really need to do some updates with my newest litters. They are looking quite nice, but of course still need improvement. I know I have a long road ahead, but this is a challenge I really enjoy. I love the rare colors! I think reds must be the rarest in the Holland Lops! If you have any questions, comments or suggestions I would love to hear from you. I would like to thank Kelly of Rose Art and Jennifer of Millhilll Rabbitry for a few additional F generation reds that have helped along the way.

Creator's Hot Wire

F3 Red Holland Buck

SOLD Leslie

Creator's Siren 1 leg!

F3 Red Holland Buck

Sold Julie H

Creator's Fire Cracker

F1 Red Holland Doe

Sold Leslie

CRoseart's Sunfire

F3 Red Holland Doe

4 sale After litter is weaned 200.00 less than what I paid

Creator's Red Jr doe

Creator's Salsa

F3 Red Holland Buck

Sold Leslie

Creator's Canada

F2 Br Red Holland Doe

Sold Kass

Creator's Bootilicious

Booted Red Holland Doe

Sold Leslie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red Hollands are described as follows: The color is to be a bright reddish sorrel, but not too dark so as to reach mahogany red. The color shall carry as deep down the hairshaft as possible. The belly color may be lighter in shade, approaching a deep creamy cast. White on the underside of the tail is permitted.

Eyes - Brown

Faults: Light or dark ticking sufficient enough to produce a frosty or smudgy effect; white belly, white eye circles, or stray white hairs are considered a fault.

*** Tips ***

* A red with a white belly is still a red. It is a fault to have a white belly, but remember as I always say, "Build the house before you paint it!" If you have some decent type and good red topcoat you can work on the belly color later at which time you can begin to choose ones with deep creamy bellies. When I first started my reds, any time I saw a white belly I kept thinking it must be an orange, not so, as long as the topcoat is a good red as described above, it is still a red, even if it has a white belly. Of course you want to work toward "perfecting" the color always, but don't throw out those ones that could very well get you there a lot sooner! For me at this stage, type and top coat color are what I look at when choosing my foundling stock.

I will be aquiring a tan ND whose belly color looks really deep and red. I am plan to implement the tan genetics into my reds. I am hoping this will improve and deepen the belly color on my reds and I may also try creating some tan hollands. This will be a new exciting project for 2010. It will feel like starting from scratch again with using a Netherland, but I am hoping the results will be worth it. Thank you Kathy Fish of Pacific Rabbitry for this wonderful opportunity! She's a cutie!

*Another tip is don't be too hasty to rid yourself of all your early F generations. If you have a buck or doe that is a great producer of type and color you may want to hang onto them. The reason being is sometimes in our haste to get good type and have them look more holland like, you can sometimes loose depth of rufus color with the use of orange. You may need to go back to those good animals to revive the color a bit. You certainly don't want to start back at square one throwing Thrianta in there again! That being said, I would only keep a few of the best ones who have proven to maintain type, along with good rufus, as you do not want to sacrifice type either.

* Also wanted to mention my experience in using other colors with the production of reds. Chestnut is a color I would stay away from. The reason being is, just as it does on orange, Chestnut really smuts up the coat. You may not see it on juniors but I have noticed as they age, reds out of chestnuts become very smutty and unattractive. Smutt (aka ticking) is a fault listed in the SOP for reds. The offspring of Chestnut/Red crosses also tend to have a bluish undercolor and I have found this to be so with the use of black tort as well. If I were to use a tort with my reds, I would have preference to a chocolate tort over any other colored tort, but tort is not my first choice when making reds. Reds out of black torts also tend to smut with age and often the red top coat coloring is almost mahogany in the juniors and like with chestnuts also has a bluish undercolor. Always try to keep your cleanest richest reds, but also keep in mind type can not be sacificed.

My first choice is to use clean oranges that are out of the wideband group if possible. Oranges that have cream, fawn, orange or frosted pearl in the ped are the ones I like to use and have found to give me the brightest, cleanest reds. My second choice to make reds are black or chocolate otters. I know of someone who has used REW and I think the color on his reds are also very nice. I have tried that once and the type was amazing lol, but the ears and jowls were smutty. The rew I used was mostly a shaded background. I guess it would depend on the genetic background of the REW as to how they would turn out. The first time I bred a thrianta to create my first cross, I used a chocolate thinking I would get these nice clean reds and all I got was a litter of chestnuts! Nice colored chestnuts with amazing rufus qualities, but still a litter of 9 chestnuts was not what I was hoping for! Now I am mainly sticking to oranges because they have proven to be the best color to get reds, at least for me.

*I am no genetics expert. I have a small basic amount of knowledge when it comes to genetics. I prefer to keep it simple, but still have enough genetic knowledge to give me a hand up. Most of my breeding is based on experience and that I have a lot of, especially with the reds and tricolors. So far this is what works for me and the above is based on my own personal observations. I am quite pleased with the results so far and I am happy to share it with anyone who asks.